The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Kamakura Period
- The Azuchi -Momoyama Period -
92 - Courtier in regular court dress, hitatare, like warrior, in Muromachi era
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1 tate-eboshi
2 hitatare
3 muna-himo
4 kikutoji-no-himo
5 suehiro (chukei)
6 ohkatabira
7 sodetsuyu-no-o
8 hitatare-no-hakama
The costume style of Imperial Court dress and ornaments, which was completed in the middle of Heian era, has been handed down as one of the ancient practices and usages at court and in samurai familieses. " "The Costume Collection of Masasuke" , which is the decipherment document of to the ancient practices and usages at court and in samurai families, was published in the second half of Heian era. >From the Insei period of late Heian era, more precisely from the Ex-emperor Toba's reign, highly ceremonial "kowashouzoku" costume gegan to be worn by courtiers The "kowashozoku (=strong dress)" is the dress style which attached deep paste to "ho" or "nohshi", and hardened the crown with a lacquer and which stood as for the fold. Supply of a dress and the technology of fixation were also specialized with it. The Daitokuji and the Ohigomon families which received the flow of Minamoto Arihito it is reported that is the originator of "kowashozoku" received the skill, and established next "Emon-do." Later, it moved from the tradition of the two families to the Ohigomon family to the Takakura family and and the Daitokuji family to the Yamashina family. In the middle term of Muromachi era (1333-1568) and these two families become the "iemoto "(=house of origin ) of the " emon-do", and have resulted by the end of today. The Imperial Court's people had refused the new dress rule which defined about clothes all the time. On the other hand, the Ashikaga samura family built a house-Muromachi street in Kyoto and they imitated the costume styles of courties in the same way and the Imperial Court also came to imitate the samurai's constume style. Greater importance came to be attached than to "kariginu" dress to the "hitatare" dress and which was the full dress of the samurai. This tendency was received and poured for the dress rule system of the Tokugawa shogunate (1600-1868). Regulation called the 3rd more than place in which it contains participation in government and more than a chamberlain to H.M. the Emperor the 4th place of positive if the "kariginu" dress served as the business of bottom] the 4th place of 4 article, and the "hitatare" dress was decided. In the Imperial Court, as a replacement of samurai's "ori-eboshi" headgear, the"tate-eboshi" and the " kazaore-eboshi" were worn. The style was mixed up at the family of a high-ranking samurai like a "shogun (=general)", the dress in the courtier's style such as the one shown in the photo was worn. The figure in the photo wears a "tate-eboshi" and a "hitatare" dress and a "suehiro (=end spread)" fan all in courtier's style.