costume style of Imperial Court dress and ornaments, which was completed
in the middle of Heian era, has been handed down as one of the ancient
practices and usages at court and in samurai familieses. "
Costume Collection of Masasuke" , which is the decipherment
document of to the ancient practices and usages at court and in samurai
families, was published in the second half of Heian era.
the Insei period of late Heian era, more precisely from the Ex-emperor
Toba's reign, highly ceremonial "kowashouzoku" costume gegan
to be worn by courtiers The "kowashozoku (=strong dress)" is
the dress style which attached deep paste to "ho" or "nohshi",
and hardened the crown with a lacquer and which stood as for the fold.
of a dress and the technology of fixation were also specialized with it.
Daitokuji and the Ohigomon families which received the flow of Minamoto
Arihito it is reported that is the originator of "kowashozoku"
received the skill, and established next "Emon-do."
moved from the tradition of the two families to the Ohigomon family to
the Takakura family and and the Daitokuji family to the Yamashina
the middle term of Muromachi era (1333-1568) and these two families
become the "iemoto "(=house of origin ) of the " emon-do",
and have resulted by the end of today. The
Imperial Court's people had refused the new dress rule which defined
about clothes all the time. On
the other hand, the Ashikaga samura family built a house-Muromachi
street in Kyoto and they imitated the costume styles of courties in the
same way and the Imperial Court also came to imitate the samurai's
constume style. Greater
importance came to be attached than to "kariginu" dress to the
"hitatare" dress and which was the full dress of the samurai.
tendency was received and poured for the dress rule system of the
Tokugawa shogunate (1600-1868). Regulation
called the 3rd more than place in which it contains participation in
government and more than a chamberlain to H.M. the Emperor the 4th place
of positive if the "kariginu" dress served as the business of
bottom] the 4th place of 4 article, and the "hitatare" dress
was decided. In
the Imperial Court, as a replacement of samurai's "ori-eboshi"
headgear, the"tate-eboshi" and the " kazaore-eboshi"
were worn. The
style was mixed up at the family of a high-ranking samurai like a "shogun
(=general)", the dress in the courtier's style such as the one
shown in the photo was worn. The
figure in the photo wears a "tate-eboshi" and a "hitatare"
dress and a "suehiro (=end spread)" fan all in courtier's