The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Kamakura Period
- The Azuchi -Momoyama Period -
85 - Buddhist monk of Jishu sect in ami-e robe.
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1 ami-e
2 Gojo-gesa
3 Gojo-gesa-no-igi
4 Gojo-gesa-no-kohimo
5 Namu-ami-dabutsu-no shihen
6 juzu
7 ami-e-no shitagasane-no koromo
8 shitagi
9 habaki
10 midare-o (waraji)
Ji sect is a religious group of Buddhism which belongs to Jodo sect created by Saint Ippen [1239-1289]. However, the sole pray to Amida Buddha of Honen and Shinran is heterogeneous to it. It builds in race faith peculiar to Japan, and wild naturalism is seen. The robe of Ji sect is the conventional Chinese style. Moreover, the aristocratic clerical robe of Japan was thrown away, and a clerical robe was found out in the popular dress. That is, it is "shikisho-no koromo" (ceremonial costume) and "the costume wiout which eliminated idea of mo"" mo", and was called "ami-e" on account of the coarse fiber. It was referred to as "uma-ginu" (=clothes of horse) by the reason for not being what a man wears. On the contrary, the people of Ji sect expressed respect to these clothes, and called it "ami-e" . The priests wore a sumi-black "ami-e" , a sumi-black "Gojo-gesa", a sumi-black "shitagasane",a white underwear, a sumi-black "obi" belt , and a white "kinshu" towel. The priest in the photo has a rosary and a piece of recitation paper written as "Amitabha Decision of Leaving this world and being born again in other worlds for 600,000 people" for distributing to people in his hand. (In Jodokyo, it is explained that aid is given to a paradise by reciting the name of Amitabha.) This "ami-e" is saved at Kankimitsudera temple. The specification of the "ami-e" figure for Saint Uzo, written with "sumi" ink in the third year of Gankim1572], was reffered. [1] White small mallowclothe phoenix double textiles "uchiki" 1 ryo (=piece)
[2] purple clothe crane 3 peak Marubun Chinese textiles "uchiki" 2 ryo
[3] light scent clothe happy diamond pattern cross-aslant pattern. textiles"hitoe" 1 ryo
[4] Ochi haze double textiles "ko-uchiki" 1 ryo
[1] White small mallow ground [3] light scent ground happiness diamond pattern Aya textiles hitoe 1 ryo [4] Ochi haze double textiles small uchiki 1 ryo crane 3 peak Marubun Tang textiles uchiki 2 Ground phoenix pattern double textiles uchiki 1 ryo [2] Purple ryo present -- the order of [2] and [1] -- 3 suits of -- "uchiki" piles up -- having somewhere else [ others ] -- storage that this etc. -- presentation of retired Emperor Goshirakawa -- again -- contribution of retired Emperor Kameyama -- it is told It is considered the thing of existing the early period of Kamakura era which is clothes in the later half of Heian era and which can mainly be smelled. This [ all ] etc. is restoreded considered and this time. In [1], a table, white small mallow clothe phoenix pattern double textiles, and cloth of another color inserted a table, purple clothe crane 3 pattern floating textiles, and cloth of another color inserted for yellow plain raw silk, the reverse side, yellow green butterfly pattern cross-aslant pattern. [cross-aslant pattern. clothecross-aslant pattern.], and [2] white plain raw silk, the reverse side, purple Matsuba tuckling-up string crane diamondpatterncross-aslant pattern. [hard clothe cross-aslant pattern.], and [3] In the single cut [4] of light scent clothe happy diamondpatterncross-aslant pattern. [cross-aslant pattern.clothecross-aslant pattern.], the Ochi hail Bunji textiles and cloth of another color inserted have become yellow plain raw silk, and the reverse side has become yellow diamond pattern. In [1], a table, and and white small mallow Ground phoenix pattern double textiles -- and and cloth of another color inserted a -- purple [table and] Ground crane 3 peak pattern •‚ textiles, and cloth of another color inserted for yellow flat silk and the reverse side and yellow green butterfly pattern Aya [Aya ground Aya] and and [2] white flat silkand the reverse side andpurple Matsuba sash crane diamond pattern Aya[hard ground Aya] and and [3] In thesingle cut [4] of light scent Ground Happy diamond pattern Aya [Aya Ground Aya] and the Ochi hail Bunji pile textiles and cloth of another color inserted havebecome yellow flat silk andand the reverse side has become yelow diamond pattern Cereals Other elegance except "hitoe" of [3] is with cloth of another color inserted. the right side, the inside, and the lining are each hitoe-jitate cut twist ‚s, and it is aru. The back, the side, "okumi" (constructing), etc. Were sewn by portion which sewed up cloth, and the thing of the width of the sleeve, the length of the sleeve, and this "sun" was made into 1 ryo in piles. This [1] was made into the top. It piled up in piles as possession of this elegance 2 ryo of [2], and considered as "uchiki". When presuming color of those days, [3] was considered to be fading of red, is ‚ed single and used. All sizes were also depended on traditional articles. Since there is no way with a sleeve and it was put on, it followed the style. Although a overlap is in a cuff, inserted cloth in middle part by the difference of the length from shoulder to a cuff is not visible. Which piled up "hitoe" of 12 sheets when piling up 4 sets of "hitoe" cut [ of the Tsuruoka Hachinmangu shrine / three sheet / 1 set ] things it comes to be alike If 1 set of thing and "hitoe" which unite two single cut [ three sheet / 1 set ] things with 3 sets are piled up, it will become pile [ of 12 sheets ] "hitoe. " Thus, it is thought that the language of bugles is seen actually. Originally bugles do not mean a style of"karaginu"and" mo" which is the array which is fine. Bugles came to show a style of "karaginu" and "mo" style in modern times. Here, since "ko-uchiki" of [4] was added on [1], [2], and [3], it becomes garments and a piece of"hitoe" of 12. And they total 13.