The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Kamakura Period
- The Azuchi -Momoyama Period -
82 - A woman in everyday wear; Kosode and Mobakama (=wrapping skirt).
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1 sage-gami
2 kosode
3 uwazashi-fukuro
4 mo-bakama
5 obuto
The chapter of the Empress Dowager Oh looking rice planting in "Eiga Monogatari (=Tale of Flowering Fortunes)" writes, " About 50 or 60 young women wears white "mo-bakama". It is also visible on the fan face hand-copied sutra of Shitennoji temple. Moreover, it is written in Masasuke Costume Collection that the woman treating a toilet called "hisumashi" wears "mo-bakama." Originally, the people of low status wore "kosode" and " mo-bakama" . The "mo-bakama" begun to be worn by high-ranked court ladies as "kosode," kimono with short sleeves, was to be worn as underwear in the first place, then middle-clothes, and then outergarment when it was set to the Kamakura era. As being worn now according to the ability to wear by common people, the colored and the patterned were also to be worn. The figure in the photo wears so-called "ando-bakama," which is without added cloth." Since it is interpreted as a short "hakama, " or a type of "mo," it is referred to as "mo-bakama.. Like "hakama", the waist string is connected with at the right side long. This "kosode and mo-bakama" can be observed by the figure of the ship people who are carring maids in "Muro no Tomari (=stay at room)" of Saint Honen (1133-1212) Picture Book the volume 34 of (a Buddhist priest and the founder of Jodo sect). The figure in the photo wears yellow-colored cloth and light-red colored silky "kosode" with sash-patterns and " mo-bakama"