The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Kamakura Period
- The Azuchi -Momoyama Period -
81 - A woman in everyday wear, kosode and yumaki (=light wrapping skirt).
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1 sage-gami
2 katabira
3 yumaki
Originally a noble person wore the "yumaki" around the waist when taking a bath. Moreover, highly ranked court ladies which served him/her wore "yumaki" over "uchiki"or" akome." Many of those were woven by raw silk. Other than service at the hot water in the Imperial Palace, when the Emperor cuts his hair, the court ladies as close servants wore them. [Saiguki (=Work of Saigu)] Moreover, when putting a small child into hot water, it is also described that they also covered the bottom of a bucket with it. [Utsubo Monogatari (=Tale of the Hollow Tree)] It is also written in the Heike Monogatari (=Tale of the Heike) that this "yumaki" was worn by aristocratic people. They did not wear white plain silk clothes, but the clothes with a stain as an ordinary dress which was changed to "hakama" in the 12th century. Such customs had spread also to the common people in the same period ot time. There is a figure that a woman of the domestic wearing a "koshinuno" with "kosode" which patterns were dyed, is serving a wealthy person in the "uchiki" style in the volume of Tobikura in Shigisanengi Picture Scroll. Moreover, the women in town wearing dyed "koshinuno" in the style of "kosode" can be seen in Ban Dainagon picture scroll. Since this does not have "hida", it is considered to be "yumaki." Moreover, the word "kake-yumaki" is in "Tohazugatari." As for "kake-yumaki", the string is not attached to the upper end of "koshinuno" (=waist cloth). It is considered by the waist only on both sides of one cloth. The photo shows the light indigo blue cloth with the simple "usucha-iro mumon no katabira". The figure shows a "kake-yumaki" with "white koketsu-mon" attached to it.