The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Kamakura Period
- The Azuchi -Momoyama Period -
 
75 - A Buddhist Bishop of Zen sect (or Rinzai sect) in ceremonial-vestment or dogue.
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1 kuromosu
2 hohbuku
3 Kujo-gesa
4 kanpai
5 haibusa
6 Zagu
7 keisaku
8 shafusan
9 hingouati
10 kosode
11 bessu
12 hattoh-gutsu
As for the Buddhism in China, the Zen sect maintained the life at or after that for a suppression of Buddhism policy in the end of Tang (China) in the 3rd century. Giving actual sense of uncertainty to a decline of an Imperial Court government of those days, and the figure of the Taira family which ruins and dies, and the belief of Buddhism's decline in the end of Heian era is [Helpless age]. People wished for standing on the right instruction, the right Buddha method, and returning just on account of [Buddha]. Eisai and Dogen asked for true religious relief by new Buddhism over the Sung dynasty of China of those days. Although the idea will contain a Ritsu-element also in a dress much of course since the Zen of Soto sect carried out since asking of way origin asked for older Buddhism Since the Zen of Rinzai sect of the Sakae west aimed at the complete import for the example by Buddhism of Sung dynasy (China), it will follow the perfect China style of those days also for ceremonial robe. Eisai -- main -- work "Setting up Zen -- defense of the fatherland -- the behavior of concrete practice was stated to the lower volume "Zen sect shimoku no.8" of argument" and ceremonial robe of "power should be used about ceremonial robe and it is declared as ". It is referred to as "kasrakoromo" in the meaning which is different from the conventional the Heian Buddhism about this ceremonial robe [ceremonial clothes] those days. A meaning called tool clothes is the mind of the full Formal headgear for court nobles [it reads with "kuromosu" and there is nothing "eboshi"] is worn on the head. That is, it is the figure in which black hood was folded up and carried. Shitagasane of the linen fabric "shafusan" is attached to the body and the sleeve length which decorates "jikitotsu" and has a string on it, and long ceremonial robe of the width of sleeve are attached to it. Only this ceremonial robe may be called tool clothes although tool clothes are language which can contain a Kujo-gesa Kujo shoulder-worn ornamental robe etc., and calls the whole. dress equipped completely. The parallel belt ["hingotai"] made from "kumihimo" string of "maru-uchi" fastens this ceremonial robe. "Kujo-gesa" which "kesa" shaves and which is attached -- very large one beyond necessity -- a reason -- it is -- worldly -- "ogesa -- " it is like [ to which the language to say was born ] Furthermore, the seating tool is put on the left arm. Let it be the original meaning true meaning to cover with and use this at the time of worship. The position which applies a seating tool to an arm is given inside the sleeve of the [2] method dress attached on ceremonial robe under [1]"kesa." [3] It may set on "kesa. " Also in each party of the Rinzai sect, there are the above-mentioned 1st and the 3rd above-mentioned difference by each idea, and it is. The Soto sect is by the 2nd. The "betsusu" socks [the same as that of another and "shitozu" socks said to the Imperial Court] is attached to a leg, and "hatsuto-gutsu" shoes suddenly. Having gained shows a dignified attitude. This is tools which are called "keisaku" and which correct disorder in the case of meditation in Zen Buddhism etc. Here, it has in the hand as a symbol of the authority of Zen leader monk. It may change to this "keisaku" stick and may have "kotsu", hossu", "nyoi", "shippei", "chojo", etc. in a hand as a thing of a dignified attitude.