The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Heian Period  
71 - Young courtier's boy in semiformal dress, hanjiri, like men's kariginu.
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1 sage-mizura
2 hanjiri
3 hanjiri no sodegukuri no o
4 hitoe
5 sashinuki or nubakama
6 hanjiri no ate obi
The figure in the photograph wears a small-size "kariginu" dress, which is sometimes called "ko-kariginu (=small kariginu)". The dress is for children; "Imakagami" ="Mirror of the Present" , a historical tale of the late Heian era (794-1185) writes "The hanjiri is a type of kariginu." The color,season,pattern,belt,etc. of "hanjiri" dress are all the same as those of "kariginu" dress; the dress was named "hanjiri (=half back)" because the part of it is shorter. At the both ends of sleeves, "awabi musubi (=abalone form)" ribbons are attached, as a fromal decoration. The color of dress is purple or lemon green, and the patterns of it are "Wakamatsu karakusa" (=an arabesque pattern), and chrysanthemums with 16 leavesin circle; the Crown Prince, a Imperial prince, a regent, etc. wore it in their childhood. In the Muromachi ear (1333-1568), a white "hakama" which was like a "noh-oguchi" (=a large hakama for Noh play) were worn; the dress in the photograph is produced in a little old-fashioned way, which is the Kamakura-era style. The boy's hairstyle is "sagemizura, that is to wear one's hair in a plait [in braids]. The "hanjiri" dress is lemon green in color, and has textured patterns of towering clouds and Wakamatsu arabesque. The strings attached on both ends of the sleeves are red and white in color; they are set in the style of "awabi-musubi" tying. The "nu-bakama (=sashinuki)" which is textured twice has the purple textured pattern of tortoise shells, and lying down butterfly in a circle; the "hitoe" has the textured pattern of red diamonds.