The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Heian Period  
68 - Buddhist monk in motsuke robe for missionary tour.
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1 wasazuno
2 motsuke-koromo
3 kesa surplice (folded)
4 sho
5 motsuke-koromo no amaoi
6 motsuke-koromo no ran
7 kosode
8 habaki
9 shumoku
10 sekitai or ate-obi
11 sho no tsuri-himo
The "motsuke" robe in the photograph is everday wear of the priest in the Heian Era. It is black in color, body length, " tarikubi (=V-neck)" and " susotsuki (=with skirt) " . You should call it the original style of "ho (=upper garment)" of the Imperial Court rather than the simplified style of "ho" by adapting the "tarikubi." It is also called "utsu-ho (=nothing ho)," which means non-class-ranking and non-official-title. It can be said that the name, "motsuke," derived from its form. "Soken" (=simple silk) is the textile of white silk originally which ceremonized form of "motsuke", and was confused with "motsuke" in later days. ("Soken" is the silk cloth woven with the raw silk which is not kneaded. It has no signs of textiles created by weaving.) The early-13th-centrury statue of Kuya, a Buddhist monk, which is preserved at Rokuharamitsuji, a temple of Shingon sect of Buddhism in Kyoto, is in the "motsuke" style wearing a rolled surplice. And "sho" is hung from the shoulder and the statue has a "shumoku (=stick)" in the right hand and has the cane which a deer's horn attached to the head in the left hand. The statue of Kuya was instructive for making the figure in the photograph.