The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Heian Period  
53 - Buddhist Prince in regular vestment: kyutai (=robe) and gojo-gesa.
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1 kyutai no Sogo-eri
2 gojo-gesa no igi or himo
3 kyutai
4 gojo-gesa no ko-igi or ko-himo
5 gojo-gesa
6 hi-ogi fan
7 juzu rosary
8 kyutai no ran
9 kyutai no ran no amaoi
10 shitagasane
11 sashinuki or nubakama
There were three styles of the sacerdotal vestment of the Heian Era: 1) the ceremonial costume for a Buddhist mass, 2) "donjiki" costume used for the ceremony as a national event, and 3) "yado-shozoku (=home costume)" worn at home. In additon to those, the costume of"gegyou no ritsu" (=regulations of gegyo) was worn. The "yado-shozoku" of monk-emperors and monk-princes and the members of royalty ranked next to them was called "kyudai (=outergarment)." It was defined in early stages of the Heian Era. The "kyudai" means "daikyu." That is, it means that it replaces the highest ranked "rai-fuku (=ceremonial wear). In the photograph, the priest in the style of the second half of the Heian Era wears the "hotate-eri" (=straight collar) called "sogo-eri" (=collar of commissioner), and wears "akome" (=undergarment), "hitoe", and "okatabira" under "kyudai" (=outergarment). Under the "sashinuki or nu-bakama", the priest in this photograph wears "oguchi-bakama" or a "shita-bakama (=lower hakama)," and "shitozu" (=cloth shoes). And he has "hi-ogi" (=fan) and "juzu" (=rosary) in his hand, and wears "gojo-gesa."