court lady's everyday wear is a combination of "uchiki", "hitoe"
and "hakama." "Masasuke Shouzoku Shou "(=a costume
collection )" edited at the Insei period writes; "From June,
the court ladies wear " hitoe-gasane," light red and light
blue in color ... " and it also writes; "The court ladies
change their dresses on July 7 ...," and "The court ladies
wear "hineri-gasane" from August 1 till 15 ..."
pieces of "hitoe" make the "hitoe-gasane" style. In
the same way, three pieces of it make the"hineri-gasane"
costumes of Hojo Masako (1157-1225), the wife of Minamoto no Yoritomo,
the founder of Kamakura Shogunate, are kept in the Tsuruokahachiman
are three kinds of "hineri-gasane" and a piece of "Hitoe."
Chunagon Diary has described about the combination of three pieces of "hitoe."
is considered to be a court lady's everyday wear.
in September of the solar calendar. Therefore, it is autumn. June is in
July of the solar calendar. Therefore,
since it was in the midst of summer, "hitoe" was made into the
array of everyday wear in piles at two sheets.
photograph shows "hitoe-kasane" of summer.
material is raw silk. The
pattern "fusen-aya" could be used, but the composite figure is
wearing "hitoe" with the pattern of "saiwai-bishi mon"
which is indigo blue in color. The
undergarment is called "kakitsubata-gasane (iris suit)" which
is yellowish green in color. The
figure is also wearing "kosode (=undergarment, literally short
sleeve)" and red "naga-bakama."