The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Heian Period  
46 - Court lady's everyday wear for summer at Insei period in latter term of Heian era.
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1 sagegami hair
2 sagegami no binsogi
3 hitoe no kinu or uchiki
4 akome-ogi fan
5 hitoe
6 aka no uchibakama
The court lady's everyday wear is a combination of "uchiki", "hitoe" and "hakama." "Masasuke Shouzoku Shou "(=a costume collection )" edited at the Insei period writes; "From June, the court ladies wear " hitoe-gasane," light red and light blue in color ... " and it also writes; "The court ladies change their dresses on July 7 ...," and "The court ladies wear "hineri-gasane" from August 1 till 15 ..." Two pieces of "hitoe" make the "hitoe-gasane" style. In the same way, three pieces of it make the"hineri-gasane" style. The costumes of Hojo Masako (1157-1225), the wife of Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of Kamakura Shogunate, are kept in the Tsuruokahachiman Shrine. They are three kinds of "hineri-gasane" and a piece of "Hitoe." Kenshunmonin Chunagon Diary has described about the combination of three pieces of "hitoe." It is considered to be a court lady's everyday wear. August is in September of the solar calendar. Therefore, it is autumn. June is in July of the solar calendar. Therefore, since it was in the midst of summer, "hitoe" was made into the array of everyday wear in piles at two sheets. This photograph shows "hitoe-kasane" of summer. The material is raw silk. The pattern "fusen-aya" could be used, but the composite figure is wearing "hitoe" with the pattern of "saiwai-bishi mon" which is indigo blue in color. The undergarment is called "kakitsubata-gasane (iris suit)" which is yellowish green in color. The figure is also wearing "kosode (=undergarment, literally short sleeve)" and red "naga-bakama."