The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Heian Period  
41 - Courtier of the side of Emperor in regular court dress "ikan." The dress's color is green, and the green is called "kikujin". This is permited from Emperor.
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1 kanmuri crown
2 hitoe
3 kikuji no ho
4 tato paper
5 hi-ogi fan
6 kikujinn no ho no ran
7 kikujin no ho no ran no arisaki
8 kikujin no ho no hakoe
9 sashinuki or nubakama
The court official's palace was establised in the Saga Emperor's Kojin period.
The office was a "ryogai-no miya (the palace beyond the regulations)"for arranging books and documents in "Kosho-den (=document palace)" in the Imperial Court.
The court officials gradually came to deal with secret documents and the documents about lawsuits. Since the court officials worked very close to the Emperor in the Imperial Court and sent the Imprerial messages, they became the leading government post at the Imperial Court soon. The Minister of the Left who also was appointed as the director general of the court official palace. Under the director genera, there were a "tou (=head)" and a courtier of the fourth rank. In the bottom of it, there were four or five court officials of the sixth rank and three court officials of the fifth rank. The court official of the sixth rank supported the close attendants' miscellaneous business in the Imperial court. Furthermore, "hi-kuroudo"(=non-court official)" zoshiki (=various colors) was in the bottom of this hierarchy. Even the sixth-ranking court officials was allowed to get on the floor of the Imperial Palace. Some of them called "kyokuro", a high-ranked priest, who always worked in the Emperor side, were given particularly "ho of kikujin", which was the informal daily costume of the Emperor. The color of "kikujin" is the color of "koji" mold. The "koji" of China is barley "koji." Therefore, the color resembles "oro-zome" (=yellow color dying) which wore yellow brown. The color was made into the solar color and made into the color which the Emperor uses. In old Japan, barley "koji" introduced from China becomes rice"koji", and it is guessed that the color of the rice"koji" is light green. The color was called yellow or blue and white"tsurubomi", and "yamabato-iro" (=turtledove color or yellowish blue). The photo shows a composite figure of a court official of the sixth rank in formal costume, "karanaga Onagadori Mon (=Chinese flower and chief bird pattern)," for winter season. The pattern of this dress varied as "tochiku-hoo (empress tree, bamboo and Chinese phoenix)""touka-onagadori (=Chinese flower and chief bird)", etc. The photo shows a composite figure of a court official of the sixth rank inb formal costume, "karanaga Onagadori Mon (=Chinese flower and chief bird pattern)," for winter season