The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Heian Period  
38 - Young daughter of the noble family in formal dress called "kazami."
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1 sagegami hair
2 monoimi
3 kazami
4 akome for upper garment
5 uchiginu
6 kinu or uchiki or itsutsu-ginu
7 hitoe
8 ueno-hakama
9 koki-hakama
10 akome-ogi
11 kazami no ate-obi
"Kazami (=a formal dress for the daughter of noble family)" is an inner clothes [or an underwear] which was originally designed to soak up sweat. Eventually it became an outer dress for the people in lower social class. Further it was made larger to be used for the full dress of the youong daughters of imperial court. Therefore, naturally the original form of "kazami" must be quite different from the one worn by the young daughters of imperial court, but then both of them are "hitoe," unlined kimono clothes after all. The features of full dress of young daughter of imperial court are, a round-shaped neckband, "ketteki (=outer kimono clothes with open armholes," 2 kins of body width, and 2 kins of sleeve width, 1 jo 6 shaku of front part kimono length (=dresser's length) and 1 jo 5 shaku of back part kimono. The figure in the photo is dressed in a square form with the neckband desined in rouond shape. Under the "kazami" it wears "akome", "itsutsu-ginu (=five clothes)," "uchiki (=middle garment)," "hitoe (=unlined garment)", a white omote-bakama (=divided skirt), all of which are layered up on long "hari-bakama ." They are all based on the sizes shown in the Msasuke Shouzoku (=costume) Selection"