The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Edo Period  
158 - A wedding dress of a young woman of an upper class marchant
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan

1 Kyo-fu shimada
2 kami^kazari
3 aida-gi
4 uchikake
5 hakoseko
6 obi
7 sensu fan
The figure in the photo wears the costume of the daughter of the townspeople of Kamigata (=Osaka & Kyoto) in its best in the late Edo era; the hair is in Shimada style with Kyoto feeling. The costume consists of the "Shimabara-suso" kimono with padded skirt with the embroidery of arabesque pattern of gold thread and the pattern of pine, bamboo, and plum, and an "aida-gi" garment which has a pattern on its collar and cuff; the "obi" band of textiles is tied in the back. In addition, the "uchikake" dress which is dyed by the "kanoko-shibori" embroidered with the patterns of tortoise shell in succession, a crane, a tortoise shell, and bamboo grass on the red "rizu" fabrics is put on over them. It is costume of winter in its best. The figure in the photo is the image of a woman named Waka, who was born in the second year of Bunka period and became the wife of the 5th generation of Kinokuniya, an old family merchant of medical materials in Kyoto, brought the dress at the time of marriage; it was used for dress change of a wedding ceremony. With the exception of the Shimada hairstyle, this form suggests of the princess's of the Imperial Court's costume rather rather than townspeople's costume. As a purveyor of Higashi Honganji temple, Kinokuniya also served as the"tera-zamurai", the samurai who served the high Buddhist temples of social status, for the Honganji sect. Thus, probably, the dress according to the princess of the Imperial Court was allowed since Kinokuniya was a part of the samurai class. While they were the townspeople, there were many wealthy merchants who acquired the Imperial Court's status for the samurai. Wearing an "aidagi" garment of "kosode", a short-sleeve kimono, means that she is a married person.