The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Edo Period  
141 - Tarokaja, a first servant in an ancient drama called Noh-kyohgen.
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan

1 Kata-ginu
2 Kitsuke
3 Shijime
4 Han-bakama
5 Tabi
6 Koshi-obi
The figure in the photo is shows "Taro-kaja", who appears in a "kyohgen" play titled "Sue-hirogari (=spreading end)", which makes "Kaho-mono (= fortunate person) a main actor. The story of "sue-hirogari" is just as follows: Kahoh-mono, the master, orders Taro-kaja, the follower, to go to the capital city Kyoto to buy a "suehirogari" fan. However, Taro-kaja is deceived by the bad fellow because he does not know what "suehirogari" is. He is forced to buy an umbrella and he goes home. And then, Taro-kaja is scolded by Kahoh-mono. At that time, Taro-kaja sings the "kouta-hayashi", a small song with musical accompaniment, which he heard and memorized in Kyoto in order to take the mood of Kahoh-mono, his master. Finally, the master and the follower are reconciled happily. It has the beauty as a "kata-mono(=type thing)" of the refined congratulatory gift. The Taro-kaja is the performer who has the most familiarity in kyohgen. The dress also has an attractive point of a drawing in Indian-ink in contrast with the gorgeous luxury dress of "noh." The dress is one of representation of kyohgen costumes for its astringency, simple and natural taste, and the "feeling of clowns." The features of Taro-kaja's dress are a "kataginu (=shoulder clothes)" jacket and a "han-bakama (=half-hakama)" trousers. The "kata-ginu" jacket is dressed on the "hanb-bakama (=a half-hakama)" and fastened by a "koshi-obi" string. The "kataginu" jacket is made of black remie and the pattern, the target of a waterfowl and an arrow with a circle. This shows the Okura style which has the tradition of the Yamato sarugaku, and could be judged as "Yamato (=Japan)." The family crest is the pattern of what designed the snowy crystal and was made into the ring and shepherd's purse; the reason why it has such crest is not clear at all. In other cases, some "kataginu" jacket has the patterns of a gourd, a large turnip or a demon's tile; in this way, the fun of the kyohgen dress is represented. As for the "han-bakama" trousers, the fullness of family crests is usual and the pattern in the crests is full of precious articles. Other than that, the inner pattern has many novel designs, such as 1000 nets, 3 umbrellas, and a sailing boat. In some kyohgen program, the "han-bakama" trousers is replaced by "age-bakama" with "kyahan" leg covers. The amorous glance of a striped decoration-of-red-and-white-paper eye is free. The "koshi-obi (=waist obi) band is the wooden black skin and the wooden black lozenge of a pine to a white ground. A tabi is made of colored fabrics. The figure has a "shijime-ohgi" fan in the hand.