the edo era, the living space of the "Shogun (=general)" of
the Tokugawa shogunate was called the "Ohoku (=big backroom)",
the ladies' chamber. As
for the ladies who served a Shogun, the wedded wife was called "Midai."
for the concubine of Shogun, depending on the family the person came
from, they were divided into "johroh", "churoh", "o-koshoh",
"o-soba-jochu", "otsugi-jochu", "san-no-ma-zume",
"o-tsukaiban", and "o-nakai".
early stage of Edo era, Kasuganotsubone, a wedded wife of shogun, was
awarded the title of the 3rd court-rank from the Imperial Court.
regard to a daimyo, there was a normal address of a daimyo like "Ohoku",
the ladies' chamber; naturally there lived the "goten-jochu
(=mansion maid)", a group of ladies who served the daimyo.
dresses of a wedded wife and a princess are as follows: a "itsutsu-ginu
(=five-piece kimono)", a "omote-gi (=outer kimono)", "hari-bakama"
trousers, etc.; a "omote-gi" (=outer kimono) and "hari-bakama"
trousers etc. was sometimes used [ "itsutsu-ginu" (=five-piece
kimono) and ]. For
The marriage ceremony of the wedded wife who marries from the Imperial
Household or the Imperial Court, the full dress set of a "kara-ginu
(=Chinese clothes)" , a "mo" garment, a "itsutsu-ginu
(=five-piece kimono)" was used. Their
usual costume is the style of a "uchikake" dress (or "kaidori")
and an "aigi (=clothes between a coat and the underwear)"; "hakama"
trousers was not used. Moreover,
depending on their status, not an "uchikake" dress, but a set
of a "wataire" kimono, a "kosode (=kimono with short
sleeves)", a "hitoe (=one piece)" kimono, a "katabira
(=one piece)" kimono was used. The
custom of "Ohoku", the ladies' chamber, followed many for the
example of the Ahikaga shogun family in the Muromachi era.
various kinds of custom came to be defined. The
"koshimaki (=waist roll)" dress as the summer style of "uchikake"
dress which had originated in originated in the Muromachi era and the
Momoyama era, also appeared as a unique costume.
kimono, which was wornd by September 8 from May 5, was called the "hontsuji";
the material is the creation of a white cloth. [Its front surface was
exposed to sunlight and was ramie. It was the totally patterned with
golden silver threads. The "shitagasane" was also made of
exposed cloth.] The
"aigi" kimono in the photo has the Shippo connector Tachibana
was the possessions of the wedded wife of a certain leading daimyo's
family in Echigo (=Niigata prefecture); it was actually worn in the
second half of the Edo era. Besides
this white cloth, a black cloth [The front cloth is the same, for a
cuff, red "habutae" silk fabrics and the "shitagasane"
is white "habutae" silk fabrics.] might be used.
The "sage-obi (=lowered obi)" band "karaori (=Chinese
weaving)" fabrics, "Nishiki" fabrics, etc. were used.
the costume of the figure in the photo, a little yellowish green cloth,
which is firmly-woven textiles, with the "midare-tachiwaki"
pattern, which was embroidered by gold threads, was used.
stages, the width of that is 2 sun 5 bu in circle. It is 3 sun 5 bu in
the later stage. Length 1 joh 2 shaku. It
was reproduced on the basis of the size in the second half of Edo. .
"sage-obi (=dropped obi)" band is divided into the portion of
fixing, and the main portion of "hon-obi". In the the portion
of fixing, the stuffing is contained in the place for a hand.; it is
hardened and the sleeves of the"koshimaki" could be applied to
portion for fixing could be fastened around the body by another string.
regard to the "koshimaki (=waist roll)" kimono, the one in
black color is formal. [The
"nerinuki" cloth, totally embroidered by gold threads.]
the beginningIn, its back cloth was made of raw silk in June and July.
Afterwards, all were set to this the "nerinuki" silk fabrics,
figure in the photo wears the "koshimaki" kimono, which was
reproduced on the basis of the example of the second half of Edo era.;
the pattern was considered as the fullness of a precious article.
for the "koshimaki" style in the photo, it was the law that it
should be used from April 1 in the beginning.
second half of Edo era, it became the law that it should be used from
May 5. In addition to that, in the final stage around the years of
Ansei, it was used only for the special occassions such as the ceremony
of a wedding. In
a general use sake, the "koshimaki" style stopped being used.
figure has a "hakoseko" nose walle in the bosom ,
(=sleeve ohgi)" fan has the bones which were applied black Japanese
lacquer; is has the picture pattern of chicks on the paper.