The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Edo Period  
127 - Woman of the upper class in formal costume, Koshimaki in Ohoku (the shogunate harem).
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1. o-nagasage
2. emottoi
3. kosode
4. uchikake
5. sode-ohgi
6. sage-obi
7. hakoseko
In the edo era, the living space of the "Shogun (=general)" of the Tokugawa shogunate was called the "Ohoku (=big backroom)", the ladies' chamber. As for the ladies who served a Shogun, the wedded wife was called "Midai." As for the concubine of Shogun, depending on the family the person came from, they were divided into "johroh", "churoh", "o-koshoh", "o-soba-jochu", "otsugi-jochu", "san-no-ma-zume", "o-tsukaiban", and "o-nakai". In the early stage of Edo era, Kasuganotsubone, a wedded wife of shogun, was awarded the title of the 3rd court-rank from the Imperial Court. Also as regard to a daimyo, there was a normal address of a daimyo like "Ohoku", the ladies' chamber; naturally there lived the "goten-jochu (=mansion maid)", a group of ladies who served the daimyo. The full dresses of a wedded wife and a princess are as follows: a "itsutsu-ginu (=five-piece kimono)", a "omote-gi (=outer kimono)", "hari-bakama" trousers, etc.; a "omote-gi" (=outer kimono) and "hari-bakama" trousers etc. was sometimes used [ "itsutsu-ginu" (=five-piece kimono) and ]. For The marriage ceremony of the wedded wife who marries from the Imperial Household or the Imperial Court, the full dress set of a "kara-ginu (=Chinese clothes)" , a "mo" garment, a "itsutsu-ginu (=five-piece kimono)" was used. Their usual costume is the style of a "uchikake" dress (or "kaidori") and an "aigi (=clothes between a coat and the underwear)"; "hakama" trousers was not used. Moreover, depending on their status, not an "uchikake" dress, but a set of a "wataire" kimono, a "kosode (=kimono with short sleeves)", a "hitoe (=one piece)" kimono, a "katabira (=one piece)" kimono was used. The custom of "Ohoku", the ladies' chamber, followed many for the example of the Ahikaga shogun family in the Muromachi era. However, various kinds of custom came to be defined. The "koshimaki (=waist roll)" dress as the summer style of "uchikake" dress which had originated in originated in the Muromachi era and the Momoyama era, also appeared as a unique costume. The "aigi" kimono, which was wornd by September 8 from May 5, was called the "hontsuji"; the material is the creation of a white cloth. [Its front surface was exposed to sunlight and was ramie. It was the totally patterned with golden silver threads. The "shitagasane" was also made of exposed cloth.] The "aigi" kimono in the photo has the Shippo connector Tachibana pattern. It was the possessions of the wedded wife of a certain leading daimyo's family in Echigo (=Niigata prefecture); it was actually worn in the second half of the Edo era. Besides this white cloth, a black cloth [The front cloth is the same, for a cuff, red "habutae" silk fabrics and the "shitagasane" is white "habutae" silk fabrics.] might be used. As for The "sage-obi (=lowered obi)" band "karaori (=Chinese weaving)" fabrics, "Nishiki" fabrics, etc. were used. For the costume of the figure in the photo, a little yellowish green cloth, which is firmly-woven textiles, with the "midare-tachiwaki" pattern, which was embroidered by gold threads, was used. In early stages, the width of that is 2 sun 5 bu in circle. It is 3 sun 5 bu in the later stage. Length 1 joh 2 shaku. It was reproduced on the basis of the size in the second half of Edo. . This "sage-obi (=dropped obi)" band is divided into the portion of fixing, and the main portion of "hon-obi". In the the portion of fixing, the stuffing is contained in the place for a hand.; it is hardened and the sleeves of the"koshimaki" could be applied to it. The portion for fixing could be fastened around the body by another string. As regard to the "koshimaki (=waist roll)" kimono, the one in black color is formal. [The "nerinuki" cloth, totally embroidered by gold threads.] In the beginningIn, its back cloth was made of raw silk in June and July. Afterwards, all were set to this the "nerinuki" silk fabrics, however. The figure in the photo wears the "koshimaki" kimono, which was reproduced on the basis of the example of the second half of Edo era.; the pattern was considered as the fullness of a precious article. As for the "koshimaki" style in the photo, it was the law that it should be used from April 1 in the beginning. In the second half of Edo era, it became the law that it should be used from May 5. In addition to that, in the final stage around the years of Ansei, it was used only for the special occassions such as the ceremony of a wedding. In a general use sake, the "koshimaki" style stopped being used. The figure has a "hakoseko" nose walle in the bosom , The "sode-ohgi (=sleeve ohgi)" fan has the bones which were applied black Japanese lacquer; is has the picture pattern of chicks on the paper.