The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Edo Period  
125 - Court lady in formal dress
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1. Ohsuberakashi
2. Hirabitai
3. Saishi
4. Kushi
5. Tamakamoji
6. Karaginu
7. Uwagi
8. Itsutsu-ginu
9. Uchiginu
10. HItoe
11. Aka-no-hakama
12. Kake-obi-no-mo
13. Kake-obi
14. Kake-obi-no-mo-no-hikigoshi
15. Hi-ohgi
16. Emottoi
17. Naga-kamoji
18. Karaginu-no-kamioki
19. Tatoh
20. Mo-no-ohgoshi
21. Kurenai
22. Kobinsaki
The figure in the photo wears the fine full dress of court lady which originated in the Heian era. It is commonly called the "juni-hitoe (=12 pieces of hitoe garments)" After the Ohnin War [1467-1477], the custom became unknown and the special form was produced. The history of "junihitoe" dress passed through the early stage of Edo era, and this style continued to the year of the revival of court lady's dress in the 7th year of Kyoho [1722]. After that, around the year of Tenmei‚ÉIt was in fashion among the town officials of Kyoto.side locks are jutted out greatly‚¢‚í‚ä‚é"tohroh-bin (=lantern side locks)" style ‚ªstyle is taken by the style of the Imperial Court. and finally the "ohsuberakashi" hair was produced. The "ohsuberakashi" hair is attached with a "tama-kamoji (=ball hair attachment)" and is decorated with a "hira-bitai (=flat forehead)", a "saishi" decorative attachment and a "kushi" comb. These three items are called the "oshiyashi" ornaments. As for the "mo" garment, a "karaginu (=Chinese cloth)" garment and an embroidered "kake-obi " shawl-like band which is made of "tomogire (=same cloth)" textile, are used.; a "kogoshi (=small waist)" string is not used. How to wear the "hikigoshi (=pulling waist)" decorative string is not known completely yet. A "omote-gi (=outergarment)" is worn under a "karaginu" garment; a "uchi-ginu (=innergarment)" garment is worn under an "uchiki" garment. It differs from the Heian era. The "uchiki" garment is called the "itsutsu-ginu (=five clothes)" in the five-clothes-pile style and cotton is put into the "suso" skirt and the "okumi" neck-portion of kimono. A "hitoe (=one-piece cloth)" is worn under a "uchi-ginu" garment. A red "hakama" trousers is worn. The figure has a "hi-ohgi" fan to which the beautiful picture pattern was given and a bundle of "tatoh-shi" paper. The figure in the photo is in the style of revivbal of court lady's dress from the years of Tenmei to the 14th year of Tenpo [1843].