The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Edo Period  
122 - Courtier (civilian attendant) in ceremonial costume (sokutai) for winter
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1. Kanmuri
2. Kanmuri-no-koji
3. Kanmuri-no-kohgai
4. Kanmuri-no-ei
5. Kanumuri-no-kake okobineri
6. Hoh (uenokinu)
7. Hoh-no-ran
8. Hoh-no-ran-no-arisaki
9. Shitagasane
10. Shitagasne-no-kyo
11. Akome-to-hitoe
12. Akome-to-hitoe
13. Ueno-hakama
14. Ohguchi-bakama
15. Shitohzu
16. Sekitai
17. Sekitai-no-uwade
18. Hirao
19. Hirao-no-tare
20. Kaza-tachi
21. Shaku
22. Tatoh
23. Hi-ohgi
24. Gyotai
The costume in the photo has been used from the middle of Heian era till today It was the full dress of winter of the public administrative official of the Imperial Court. Being compared with the counterparts in the Heian era, the crown became smaller; the "ei" was hardened and was raised to the point where it did not reach to the top of "koji" projction for installing motodori hair from the Muromachi era to the Edo era. Furthermore, it was bent and was hung down on the back. In addtion to that, since the last years of Heian era, as so-called "kowa-shozoku (=hard costume)", the cloth was pasted and made to hard, and at the time of fixation, a hard ceremony line was made to show dignity. What constitute the "sokutai" full dress are as follows; they are the same items as the one of Heian era. A "kanmuri" crown, a "ho" garment, a "hanpi" garment (usually omitted), a "shitagasane" garment, a "akome" garment, a "hitoe" garment, a "ueno-hakama" trousers, a "ohguchi-bakama" trousers, a "sekitai" belt, a "gyotai" ornament, a "shaku" scepter, a "hi-ohgi" fan, "tatoh" paper, and "shitohzu" socks. When going outside, a pair of "kuwa-no-gutsu" shoes or "asagutsu" shoes was worn. When carrying a sword, a "kazatachi (=ornamental sword)" sword with a "hirao (=flat string)" was used.