The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Edo Period  
119 - Warrior in ceremonial costume, suoh.
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1. funagata-eboshi
2. chohzugake-no-o
3. suoh
4. suoh-no-munahimo
5. suoh-no-kotsuyu
6. denchuzashi-no-katana
7. suoh-no-hakama
8. suoh-no-hakama-no-koshi-ita
9. ohgi (denchu-ohgi)
The "suoh" robe is one of the samurai dresses which originated from the "hitatare" robe as well as the "daimon" robe. In the Edo era (1600-1868), it was worn by the person of lower-than-6th-court-ranked or non-ranked of the imperial court and samurai families as a full dress. The "naga-suoh" (=long suoh) robe was the full dress of the samurai of the 6th-court-rank of the Tokugawa shogunate. The robe in the photo is the "naga-suoh"; the headgear the "samurai-eboshi (=headgear for samurai)" which is commonly called "funagata-eboshi (=boat-shaped headgear)" . The "eboshi" formal headgear is fractured and it is hardened with a lacquer; the triangular "maneki (=invitation)" is in the front, and there is "yokosabi (=horizontal rust)." The formal needlework of the "suoh" robe is almost same as that of the "daimon" robe. A different points; the "suoh" robe has "koshi-ita" (=waist board) behind "hakama"; the width of the" koshi-himo" (=waist string) of the "hakama" is narrow. Moreover, they are "tomogires" (=same piece of cloth); there is no the "uwazashi" ornamental thread; the "koshiita" panel has a family crest. As regard to the material, both the upper and lower are restricted to "sarashi-nuno", cloth which was exposed to sunlight and dried to make it white. . The "sode-no-tsuyu (=due ofr sleeve)" string is not attached to it; the "muna-himo (=chest string)" and the "kotsuyu (=small due)" string are made of the "kusube-kawa (=smoked leather)". As for the family crest, 2 in front and 3 to the upper back of jacket; on the "hakama" trousers, a small crest is on the "koshi-ita (=waist board)" panel and two on the both "aibiki", the side parts of "hakama". The "kosode (=short sleeve)" garment is "noshime-kosode" which is worn under the "suoh" robe. The "chiisa-gatana (=small sword)" and the "ohgi" fan is mandatory for the full dress. The combination of a "suoh" robe and a "han-bakama" tropusers is called "ko-suoh (=small suoh)" dress.