"suoh" robe is one of the samurai dresses which originated
from the "hitatare" robe as well as the "daimon"
the Edo era (1600-1868), it was worn by the person of
lower-than-6th-court-ranked or non-ranked of the imperial court and
samurai families as a full dress. The
"naga-suoh" (=long suoh) robe was the full dress of the
samurai of the 6th-court-rank of the Tokugawa shogunate.
in the photo is the "naga-suoh"; the headgear the "samurai-eboshi
(=headgear for samurai)" which is commonly called "funagata-eboshi
(=boat-shaped headgear)" . The
"eboshi" formal headgear is fractured and it is hardened with
a lacquer; the triangular "maneki (=invitation)" is in the
front, and there is "yokosabi (=horizontal rust)."
formal needlework of the "suoh" robe is almost same as that of
the "daimon" robe. A
different points; the "suoh" robe has "koshi-ita"
(=waist board) behind "hakama"; the width of the"
koshi-himo" (=waist string) of the "hakama" is narrow.
Moreover, they are "tomogires" (=same piece of cloth); there
is no the "uwazashi" ornamental thread; the "koshiita"
panel has a family crest. As
regard to the material, both the upper and lower are restricted to "sarashi-nuno",
cloth which was exposed to sunlight and dried to make it white. .
"sode-no-tsuyu (=due ofr sleeve)" string is not attached to
it; the "muna-himo (=chest string)" and the "kotsuyu
(=small due)" string are made of the "kusube-kawa (=smoked
for the family crest, 2 in front and 3 to the upper back of jacket; on
the "hakama" trousers, a small crest is on the "koshi-ita
(=waist board)" panel and two on the both "aibiki", the
side parts of "hakama". The
"kosode (=short sleeve)" garment is "noshime-kosode"
which is worn under the "suoh" robe.
(=small sword)" and the "ohgi" fan is mandatory for the
full dress. The
combination of a "suoh" robe and a "han-bakama"
tropusers is called "ko-suoh (=small suoh)" dress.