The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Edo Period  
118 - Daimyo (domain lord) in ceremonial costume; daimon (crested formal robe) and naga-bakama trousers.
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1. kazaori-eboshi
2. kake-o
3. daimon
4. daimon-no-mun
5. daimon-no-kotsuyu
6. daimon-no-sodetsuyu
7. daimon-no-hakama (naga-bakama)
8. daimon-no-koshi
9. denchuzashi-no-katana (=chiisa-gatana)
10. suehiro (=chukei)
In the Edo era (1600-1868), many samurai of non-grade obtained permission and wore "nunoginu" robe. ["Nunoginu" is the clothes made with the cloth woven with fibers, such as hemp.] Except for the lord of the large domain, the common daimyo was usually nominated as the 5th place. The "daimon" robe differs from the one in the Middle Ages (=Kamakura era and Muromachi era). The"hakama"tropusers is "naga-bakama" (=long hakama) type; it is the full dress for the inside-castle use. The material is "nuno (=cloth)" textiles or "seiko" textiles; its color is optional. The "muna-himo (=chest string)" and the "sodeguri-no-o" (=strings of armhole)" are made of silk just like the case of "hitatare" robe. As for the family crests, 3 of them are on the upper back and 2 in front; 2 small ones are on front of the "hakama". One each crest are under the "aibiki" portion, which sewed up the cloth of both the sides of the "hakama"; one crest is on the back. [However, one in the back is not attached in somje cases.] "Kazaori (=wind bending) eboshi" formal headgear has "kake-o" strings. The winter "kosode" garment is the "noshime kosode" type which was worn under the full dress. The figure carries a "chiisa-gatana (=small sword)"; it has a "suehiro (=end spreading)" fan.