The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Edo Period  
117 - Warrior of high rank in ceremonial costume; kariginu robe and sashinuki trousers.
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1. kazari-eboshi
a. kazaori-eboshi-no-kake-o
2. hitatare
3. kariginu
4. kariginu-no-ate-obi
5. hitatare-no-kotsuyu
6. sashinuki (=nu-bakama)
7. denchuzashi-no-katana
8. suehiro (=chukei)
In the Edo era (1600-1868), daimyo and the high-ranked samurai families of "being the bottom junior grade of the 4th court rank" were allowed to wear "kariginu" dress as the full dress of Tokugawa shogunate. The dress in the photo is the costume positioned in the middle of "naga-hitatare" for the man who was ranked higher than the 3rd-court-ranked or 4th-ranked chamberlain to the Emperor of and "daimon (=large crest)" dress for the 5th-ranked daimyo. The "hakama" trousers is not the "naga-bakama (=long hakama)" type but the "sashinuki" type. The "eboshi" formal headgear‚Íthe "hidari-ore & hidari-mayu (= left eyebrows break into the left)" type and the "kakeo (=attachment string)" is "kobineri", pieces of twisted-paper string. The "kariginu" dress is made of "sha-ji", thin and is light summer texture, and its color and crest pattern is not restricted; the "ate-obi" band is made of the same texture. The ornament of "sodegurio (=armhole)" is pure white "yori-ito (=twisted thread); in the formal occasion, the thick "hiragumi", string which is flattened and assembled , was used for youngmen and thin "hiragumi" for old men. The "sashinuki" trousers is made of light-yellow "hiraginu (=raw silk)"; it was made of purple"hiraginu" at a certain time. The fan has 25 bridges and the color of frame is unrestricted as well; , the "choshi" screen paper was usually omitted. The sword is "tanto (=short sword)" or "chiisa-katana (=small sword)". In case of carrying a "tachi (=bold sword)", the "itomaki-no-tachi (=thread-winded bold sword)" was used. The formal footwear was the "ii (=herbaceous plant) no obuto (=bold strap)"; a pair of "zori (=straw sandal)" was used as well. Moreover, a pair of "asagutsu (=shallow shoes)" was worn in some cases. [Reference: "The Current Samurai Costume Collection" & "The 4th-court-ranked Samurai Family's Costume Collection"]