the Edo era (1600-1868), daimyo and the high-ranked samurai families of
"being the bottom junior grade of the 4th court rank" were
allowed to wear "kariginu" dress as the full dress of Tokugawa
dress in the photo is the costume positioned in the middle of "naga-hitatare"
for the man who was ranked higher than the 3rd-court-ranked or
4th-ranked chamberlain to the Emperor of and "daimon (=large crest)"
dress for the 5th-ranked daimyo. The
"hakama" trousers is not the "naga-bakama (=long hakama)"
type but the "sashinuki" type. The
"eboshi" formal headgearÍthe "hidari-ore &
hidari-mayu (= left eyebrows break into the left)" type and the "kakeo
(=attachment string)" is "kobineri", pieces of
twisted-paper string. The
"kariginu" dress is made of "sha-ji", thin and is
light summer texture, and its color and crest pattern is not restricted;
the "ate-obi" band is made of the same texture.
ornament of "sodegurio (=armhole)" is pure white "yori-ito
(=twisted thread); in the formal occasion, the thick "hiragumi",
string which is flattened and assembled , was used for youngmen and thin
"hiragumi" for old men. The
"sashinuki" trousers is made of light-yellow "hiraginu
(=raw silk)"; it was made of purple"hiraginu" at a
certain time. The
fan has 25 bridges and the color of frame is unrestricted as well; , the
"choshi" screen paper was usually omitted.
is "tanto (=short sword)" or "chiisa-katana (=small
sword)". In case of carrying a "tachi (=bold sword)", the
"itomaki-no-tachi (=thread-winded bold sword)" was used.
formal footwear was the "ii (=herbaceous plant) no obuto (=bold
strap)"; a pair of "zori (=straw sandal)" was used as
a pair of "asagutsu (=shallow shoes)" was worn in some cases.
"The Current Samurai Costume Collection" & "The
4th-court-ranked Samurai Family's Costume Collection"]