The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Edo Period  
116 - Daimyo (domain lord) in ceremnial costume, naga-hitatare
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1. kazaori-eboshi
a. kake-o
2. hitatare
3. hitatare-no-naga-bakama
4. hitatare-no-munahimo
5. hitatare-no-kotsuyu
6. hitatare-no-sodetsuyu
7. ohkatabira
8. denchuzashi-no-katana
9. suehiro (chukei)
10. futatsu-ori-mage
11. hitatare-no-hakama-no-koshi
The "naga-hitatare" dress is the ceremonial costume for samurai to wear inside the castle of "daimyo (=domain lord)." Shogun, the lords of "Gosanke (=the Tokugawa's big three families)", etc. wore it in ceremonial occasions. As for Daimyo, the one who was ranked more than the 4th-place chamberlain to the Emperor was allowed to wear it. It was worn at the times, such as the beginning of the year and a coming-of-age ceremony for a boy. The purple "kakeo" strings, which were attached to the formal "eboshi" headgear, were worn only by high-ranked samurai who were allowed to wear it. The "hitatare" garment was made with the "seigo-ji" silk-woven fabrics. The shogun's "hitatare" was purplish red containing gray in color. The "hitatare" of "dainagon", chief councillor of state, was red in color originally; the one in light yellow was worn by shoguns in the years of Genna or Kanei, and other samurai avoided to wear it consequently. (The executive who was ranked under the the right and left ministers by the system of the ritsuryo legal codes.) The selection of colors for other pieces were not restricted: "matsugasane (=iridescent)" "hitatare" with purple chest strings and "kikutoji (=chrysanthemum binding)" braided strings. As for a sword, the "chiisa-gatana (=small sword)" was used. with other free amorous glance and the short thing of fixation. As for a fan, the "suehiro (=spreading end)" was used; it was "kinji (= ground-strewn-with-gold-dust)"-finished in "mebeni", light red color. The picture on the stretching paper was uncertain, and the color of "hone (=bone" supporter was uncertain as well. The other name of the fan is "chukei". When carrying a "tachi (=thick sword)", a long sword, the "itomaki-tachi" was used and the white "oh-katabira" undergarment was worn.