the years of Genroku in the Edo era, the technique of the Yuzen-zome
dyeing, which is characterized as paste being placed to prevent dyeing
and hand-drawn picture, became popular. It
is said that the technique was the original idea of Miyazaki Yuzen who
was a resident of Kyoto. His
year of birth and age at death are unknown. Furthermore,
it is not his own original idea. The
epoch-making method of expressing the dyeing of "kosode"
kimono made by progress of technology of those days was called the"Yuzen."
those days, some collections of designs of the"Yuzen" were
to those existing data, the oldest one started by the publishment of the
collection titled "Mi-hinakata (=the model)" in the sixth year
of Kanbun time, and the newest one was finished around the years of
Bunsei time in the last days of Tokugawa shogunate.
100 or more sorts of model collections, which were published in those150
years, are existing even now. The
model is expressed imaginatively, not by the reduction of the fixed rate
of the original measurements but by the atmosphere of the original
present, any articles left by the departed of the same clothes as the
model collections do not exist.) The
kimono in the photo is a "kosode" from one of the collections;
it has the patterns of "hagi (= bushclover)", "kikyo (=
Chinese bellflower)", "susuki (=Japanese pampas grass), and
the Chinese character of "aki (=autumn)".
belt is "meibutsu-kireji (=famous fragment cloth)" with the "kanto
(=pattern from Kuangtung, China)" pattern; it is fastened in "Kichiya-musubi
(=fastening)" style which was in fashion those days. ( Kamimura
Kichiya was a kabuki actor.) The
hair is fixed in the "sekirei-zuto (=wagtail portion)" style
in which the "tabo", the portion which stretched back and came
out by the Japanese coiffure, is extended on the back.