"kosode" (=short sleeves) garment is an underwear in the Heian
the Kamakura era to the Muromachi era, the "kosode" garment
turned into an outer-garment gradually. It
evolved into the clothes of "mono-color and without patterns"
to "multi-color with patterns" in the historical process.
order to make its form, the unit of the two width of body and half width
of sleeve is used by cutting of clothes on the basis of 45 centi-meter
"sode-guchi (=cuff)" is made narrow; its "erikataaki"
vacancy of a collar is narrow; its "eritake," collar length is
long; its "tate-zuma", the portion of the right-and-left both
ends of the skirt of clothes, is short. Moreover,
its width of "okumi" portion is broad, its "uki",
the length from back sewing to a cuff, is short and the width of body is
also broad. As
a matter of fact, it is not a confortable to wear.
reason, it is probably the vestiges of the "uchiki" garment as
everyday wear that a "uchikake" dress is worn without
fastening a "obi" belt on a "kosode" garment.
the Momoyama era to the Edo era, the "kosode" garments came to
be worn frequently. The
width of cloth changed to 33centi-meters width which is convenient to
wear clothes. The
form of it was also established and it has resulted as it is by today.
for the pattern of dyeing, the "tsujiga-bana" dyeing method of
the Muromachi era, the combination of embroidery and "harihaku
(=pressing foil)" of the Momoyama era, which is called the "nuihaku
(=sewing foil)"method, the "kara-ori (=Chinese textiles)"
silk fabrics, which appear like embroidered, were used.
early times of Edo era, since the patterns on the cloth were made by
using variegation, "surihaku", and embroidery, all the cloth
of a material was completely covered by them.
the beautification to a kind of limit was created.
so-called "Jinashi-kosode of Keicho".
been started by the "tsujiga-bana -zome" dyeing method, the
dyed patterns of "kosode" reached its highest tide in the "Kosode
of Eicho". This
technology disappeared according to other dynamic causes, such as the
extravagant prohibition law, and the automatic cause by the start of "Yuzen"
dyeing method. As
regard to the dyed "kosode" garment of the beginning of modern
times, the later term of Muromachi era is its eraly term and, the peak
time of the Momoyama era is the mid term and the Keicho period of Edo
era is the last term. The
figure in the photo wears the restored "Kosode of Keicho"
which united the strong point of the "tsujiga-bana-zome"
dyeing method and the "nuihaku" method of the peak time of
Momoyama era. The
figure wears a slender "obi" belt; the woman should wear one
more piece of "kosode" garment when going out.
style of the woman is an old-fashioned straight hair which is expressing
that she is the one of the upper class.