figure in the photo wears the fine dress of a court lady after the
middle of Heian era (794-1185). This
dress is commonly called "juni-hitoe (=twelve-layered garment)."
Onin-no-ran (=Onin War), since the custom of the dress became unknown,
special style was produced. The
figure in the photo shows the dress from Momoyama era through the14th
year of Tenpo (1843), which is the time of revival of the "mo"
garment of Heian era. In
addition, under this "mo" garment, four pieces of "mo"
garments, which are called the "koketsu-no-mo (=a tie-dyed mo)",
are worn. The
"koketsu-no-mo" was abolished by the revival court lady's
dress in the seveth year of Kyoho (1722). The
term, "koketsu-no-mo" is very old as a matter of naming.
to the historical fact made clear, the article left by the Empress
Kazuko, the wife of Emperor Gomizuo, which has been saved at Reigan-ji
temple in Kyoto, is the oldest. The
pattern on the"mo" is not based on original "koketsu."
is turned the white of it up by the "roketsu-zome"
(=wax-dyeing) method, and "koma-shishu" (= embroidery) is
carried out. Moreover,
a dress which inherits the tradition of the four-piece-form is in the
sacredness treasures dedicated to the Ise-jingu shrine.
"karaginu" (=Chinese clothes) garment is a "omotegi"
(=outer clothes)." Unlike
the court lady's of the Heian era, the "uchiginu" (=hitting
clothes) clothes was worn under a "uchiki" clothes.
clothes was called" itsutsu-ginu (=five clothes)", and it is
worn in the five-piece-pile form, and cotton is put in the "okumi"
was worn under the "uchiginu" clothes.
figure in the photo wears a red "uchi-bakama" trousers and a
red "hakama" trousers of which material is woven by the "seigo"
method in piles. She
has a "hi-ogi" fan with some hand-drawn beautiful patterns.
hair style is a "sage-gami (=lowering hair)" attached with a "tama-kamoji
(=round added hair)" to make the "hirabitai (=flat forehead)"
style with "saish" and "kushi (=comb)" as ornaments.
three ornamental additives are called "oshiyashi" ornament.
hair style is in the style of the time from the Momoyama era through the
first half of the Edo era. In
the second half of the Edo era, the style was replaced by the "osubekarashi"
which is quite visible as a stretching-out hair.
dress in the photo was restored, being based on the article left by
Emperor Kazuko, the wife of Emperor Gomizuo. Its
weightiness is overflowing.