The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Edo Period  
112 - Court lady in formal dress at the early stage of Edo era.
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1 hirabitai
2 saishi
3 kushi
4 tsukuri-mayu
5 kake-obi
6 karaginu
7 uwagi
8 itsutsuginu
9 uchiginu
10 hitoe
11 aka-no-hakama
12 mo
13 mo-no-ohgoshi
14 mo-no-hikigoshi
15 kohketsu-no-mo
16 karaginu-no-kamioki
17 emottoi
18 kurenai
19 kobinsaki
20 naga-kamoji
The figure in the photo wears the fine dress of a court lady after the middle of Heian era (794-1185). This dress is commonly called "juni-hitoe (=twelve-layered garment)." After Onin-no-ran (=Onin War), since the custom of the dress became unknown, special style was produced. The figure in the photo shows the dress from Momoyama era through the14th year of Tenpo (1843), which is the time of revival of the "mo" garment of Heian era. In addition, under this "mo" garment, four pieces of "mo" garments, which are called the "koketsu-no-mo (=a tie-dyed mo)", are worn. The "koketsu-no-mo" was abolished by the revival court lady's dress in the seveth year of Kyoho (1722). The term, "koketsu-no-mo" is very old as a matter of naming. According to the historical fact made clear, the article left by the Empress Kazuko, the wife of Emperor Gomizuo, which has been saved at Reigan-ji temple in Kyoto, is the oldest. The pattern on the"mo" is not based on original "koketsu." It is turned the white of it up by the "roketsu-zome" (=wax-dyeing) method, and "koma-shishu" (= embroidery) is carried out. Moreover, a dress which inherits the tradition of the four-piece-form is in the sacredness treasures dedicated to the Ise-jingu shrine. Under the "karaginu" (=Chinese clothes) garment is a "omotegi" (=outer clothes)." Unlike the court lady's of the Heian era, the "uchiginu" (=hitting clothes) clothes was worn under a "uchiki" clothes. The"uchiki" clothes was called" itsutsu-ginu (=five clothes)", and it is worn in the five-piece-pile form, and cotton is put in the "okumi" portion "Hitoe" was worn under the "uchiginu" clothes. The figure in the photo wears a red "uchi-bakama" trousers and a red "hakama" trousers of which material is woven by the "seigo" method in piles. She has a "hi-ogi" fan with some hand-drawn beautiful patterns. Her hair style is a "sage-gami (=lowering hair)" attached with a "tama-kamoji (=round added hair)" to make the "hirabitai (=flat forehead)" style with "saish" and "kushi (=comb)" as ornaments. These three ornamental additives are called "oshiyashi" ornament. This hair style is in the style of the time from the Momoyama era through the first half of the Edo era. In the second half of the Edo era, the style was replaced by the "osubekarashi" which is quite visible as a stretching-out hair. The full dress in the photo was restored, being based on the article left by Emperor Kazuko, the wife of Emperor Gomizuo. Its weightiness is overflowing.