The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Kamakura Period
- The Azuchi -Momoyama Period -
 
104 - Tea master in dohbuku coat
The Costume Museum Kyoto JapanThe Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1 zukin
2 do-buku
3 rakusu
4 kosode
5 tabi
6 sensu
7 shukin
The figure in the photo show the image of Sen no Rikyu(1522-1591), who is the founder of the 1000 house style tea ceremony and also the master of the tea ceremony of the Azuchi-Momoyama era. He wears a black "zukin", which is so-called "Rikyu-bo" cap or "chajin (=tea master)-bo" cap in present days. He wears a "kosode (= short sleeves)" kimono and a "dohfuku" coat [same as "jikitotsu" monk's robe in form and color] of yellowish ashen red in color,.. He wears a purple "shukin" belt [string of "kumi-ito (=combined thread"], which expresses nobility, at the waist, and a "Gojo-gesa" surplice, which is called "rakusu" of "kinran" (=gold brocade). He has a rosary or a fan in his hand. The monk's robe of this style is almost same as the counterpart of Zen sect. A black or dark dark blue "jikitotsu" was the original style. Any worldly person who embraces Buddhism without forsaking the world wore the "dohfuku" coat. Black [or dark dark blue] and other colors were used for it when it is not the case of "Tamamono-iro (=given colors)" colors, which are the colors given by the Emperor. As for the "tamamono-iro" colors, green and yellow were added to scent, purple and red afterwars.