The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan Costume History in Japan
The Kamakura Period
- The Azuchi -Momoyama Period -
 
102 - Woman of the upper warrior class in ceremonial dress, with uchikake outer-garment
The Costume Museum Kyoto Japan
1 uchikake
2 aigi
3 hoso-obi
4 bonbori (ohgi)
Azuchi-Momoyama era is the time when Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Oda Nobunaga were holding political power. Namely, for about 30 years from Nobunaga's on capital (1568) to Hideyoshi's death (1598) or the fighting of Sekigahara (1600). Around this time, as samurai's wives followed the trend to omit the element of clothes, they came to wear "kosode (=kimono with short sleeves)" garment with a thin belt casually and the noble women began to hung down "uchikake" dress over the "kosode.". Her hair style is so-called "suberakashi (=straight hair)" with two mutilated lappet hair, which are called "binsogi no kami (=mutilation of hair)", on both sides. The making-up method came to draw "tsukuri-mayu (=make-up eyebrow)" on the upper part of forehead. High-class "uki-orimono (=floating textile) ," which descended from Ming Dynasty of China (1368 -1644), was used as the material to make the "uchikake" dress. As for the "uki-orimono," the thread of the portion of a pattern floats and it is visible like embroidery. Or what was finished weaving in Japan was used in response to this technology. This high-class "uki-orimono" is called "karaori" (=Chinese textile). The underwear for "uchikake" dress is called "aida-gi (=middle clothe)". White textile was usually used in order to make the "aida-gi" and an underwear which had a pattern was worn.. In the Edo era, a red "aida-gi" was worn for a red "uchikake" dress and , a black "aida-gi" for a black one. For the court ladies and samurai women, the "ji-monyo" clothes of which pattern was woven into the ornament were usually used for "aida-gi." Any patterns of dyeing or embroidery was not applied for the "aida-gi".