era is the time when Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Oda Nobunaga were holding
political power. Namely, for about 30 years from Nobunaga's on capital
(1568) to Hideyoshi's death (1598) or the fighting of Sekigahara (1600).
this time, as samurai's wives followed the trend to omit the element of
clothes, they came to wear "kosode (=kimono with short sleeves)"
garment with a thin belt casually and the noble women began to hung down
"uchikake" dress over the "kosode.".
style is so-called "suberakashi (=straight hair)" with two
mutilated lappet hair, which are called "binsogi no kami
(=mutilation of hair)", on both sides. The
making-up method came to draw "tsukuri-mayu (=make-up eyebrow)"
on the upper part of forehead. High-class
"uki-orimono (=floating textile) ," which descended from Ming
Dynasty of China (1368 -1644), was used as the material to make the "uchikake"
for the "uki-orimono," the thread of the portion of a pattern
floats and it is visible like embroidery. Or
what was finished weaving in Japan was used in response to this
high-class "uki-orimono" is called "karaori"
(=Chinese textile). The
underwear for "uchikake" dress is called "aida-gi
(=middle clothe)". White
textile was usually used in order to make the "aida-gi" and an
underwear which had a pattern was worn.. In
the Edo era, a red "aida-gi" was worn for a red "uchikake"
dress and , a black "aida-gi" for a black one.
court ladies and samurai women, the "ji-monyo" clothes of
which pattern was woven into the ornament were usually used for "aida-gi."
patterns of dyeing or embroidery was not applied for the "aida-gi".