begins from the "hitatare" dress which was a samurai's full
dress, and the simple dress was made one after another to the "daimon"
or the "su-oh" dress. The
"daimon" is a type of "hitatare" which is dyed
large-sized family crest at five places and the crests are attached also
to a hakama at five places. It
started in the Muromachi era and it became the usual full dress of the
samurai who were at higher than the fifth ranking at the Imperial court
in the Edo era. Afterwards,
as each dress became the clothes for a ceremony, the "kataginu
(=sleeveless clothe)" jacket, which was the "suoh" dress
without sleeves, and a "hakama" trousers came to be worn
usually worn together with a "kosode (=small sleeve)" inside.
it was also a everyday clothes, it became one kind of full dress.
the Edo era, the set of "kataginu" jacket and "hakama"
trousers was referred to as "kamishimo (=top and bottom)", and
it became a samurai's full dress. The
figure in the photo was based on the portrait of Oda Nobunaga.
hegemon Oda Nobunaga was assassinated by his vassal Akechi Mitsuhide at
Honno-ji Temple in kyoto (=Honno-ji Incident, 1582=Tensho 10.6.2.).
portrait was painted next year by Kanoh Motohide for the first
anniversary of his death. It
has been preserved at Choko-ji temple in Aichi prefecture.
figure wears a bluish green "kataginu" jacket and a "hakama"
trousers in the same color with two white stripes.
(three-paulownia crests) are dyed on them. In
the "rocho" (=bare head) style, he wears a white "kosode"
(=small sleeves) garment over a red underwear, and has a sword at the
waist. [Since it was natural for a samurai to wear a hat or a crown in a
ceremonial situation, there was a special term, "rocho (=bare top)"
or "rotoh (=bare head)", for the costume style with bare
has a "shirabone-no-ohgi" fan in his hand.
(=waist board)" panel is attached to the "hakama"
trousers, and a"koshi-himo (=waist string)" is narrow.
the counterpart the "kataginu" jacket in future generations,
its pleats are made natural and the "awase", an overlap of
neckbands, in front of the breast are set deep.